Postcard from Lyttelton: the one-man restaurant in New Zealand’s hipster harbour

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Having emerged from three years in a frozen hell, the survivors aboard the Terra Nova arrived in Lyttelton Harbour in 1913. They had sailed into a world of colour and confusion. “Always we looked for trees, people and houses,” wrote the diarist-explorer Apsley Cherry-Garrard in his seminal book The Worst Journey in the World. “How different it was from the day we left and yet how much the same: as though we had dreamed some horrible nightmare and could scarcely…

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