How to see Australia’s famous heart-shaped reef

I am spellbound by a hypnotic fish dance.

Shoals of sardines move in perfect unison, flickers of light reflecting on the schooling fish. Thousands of them wave across in front of me before suddenly changing direction, then falling, narrowing to a thin line before rising en masse again.

You’d think I was diving within a giant bait ball, but I am safely inside Australia’s first-ever underwater suites, Reefsuites, on the Great Barrier Reef. It feels like I’m immersed in an aquarium, but on…

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